They did make the leaf plus that has decent range with the same formfactor though. Also I’m quite sure the batteries are not in the trunk, unless that’s where they put the extras in the plus version or something? Our 2015 leaf had significantly more trunk space than our brand new bolt despite being of similar dimensions. The bolt does have better rear leg room though.

The main issues with the leaf stem from not having any active heating/cooling for the battery and using an uncommon plug for level 3 charging that is going the way of the dodo. If you live in a temporate climate and don’t need to fast charge for road trips the leaf is a totally acceptable car IMO.

It lets the other person know you are up and available for chatting in case there was anything they want/need a quick response to.

Behind the curve, on Netflix I think

Yeah I was thinking leather

The removal of borders on buttons. I don’t know how many times I’ve been using a piece of software and haven’t realized for a long while that some icon is actually a clickable thing and not just some UI decoration or something.

The removal of text in favor of icons. I hate having to memorize what all your icons mean in your app. Please just make text unless it’s something insanely obvious. It’s even worse when they neglect to put tool tips to tell you what the icon is supposed to mean

Windex is one of those Paul sellers tips/suggestions :)

I bought diamond stones for sharpening and just used windex or whatever cheap offbrand stuff I could find and it worked well. I’m not sure what one would use with traditional sharpening stones.

For glue just standard yellow wood glue is fine for most purposes (Lepage brand I think?). Titebond is good too though more expensive, and they have different varieties if you need water proof glue or whatever.

I never did get a hand brace. I think Lee Valley Tools might sell one but yeah it was expensive and for most purposes I’m fine with just my electric drill. For those traditional braces I think they also require a matching bit since they don’t have a standard chuck so watch out for that I guess. Brace and bit always seemed cool to me but I could never justify the expense of getting into one, nor did I ever come across a good deal on a used one that had a bit as well.

1. Since you can’t sharpen hardened saws they are basically disposable. If you are just trying out the hobby or aren’t going to be making somewhat heavy use of a saw then it’s probably fine. If you are in it for the long haul then getting a saw you can sharpen will save money over time.
2. I don’t think I’ve heard of unsharpenable chisels before. The saws that can’t be sharpened usually call themselves impulse sharpened or something. Are these chisels referred to with the same terminology?
3. I think dovetail saws are just especially fine and thin. I don’t think you need one specifically unless you are doing a lot of small, fine dovetails.
4. Lots of people advocate for the number 5 plane but l, like Paul Sellers find a number 4 more comfortable for most things. I have a 70s Stanley number 4 and a Veritas 5 1/2. I also had a Stanley number 5. The 5 is quite heavy which can be nice if you want to utilize its mass to really throw it through some thick shavings or rough cutting. But for lighter work and just general smoothing, edging, and chamfering the number 4 is just very pleasant. Not too heavy or ungainly, and easy to maneuver. The 5 has its place but I wouldn’t want to use it for most jobs unless I needed the length for flattening something or the mass to help me muscle through something.

That one I always assumed meant to just get your ass out on the dance floor. Not any specific form of dancing