Surprisingly sane take, I forget sometimes that not everything on the internet is straight cynicism. Ty.

It could but the concern weird be rattle if you have any. I what wouldn’t fall do the whole “keyboard specific dampening foam”, I use packing foam on my keyboard between the case and PCB and it’s totally fine. But the PCB is also screwed into metal standoffs in a wooden case, and I have no plate. Surprisingly I don’t have an issue with switch movement. And the seller stopped selling plates while they unloaded stock of PCBs. I’ve been too lazy to reverse engineer the plate design, which the seller also for some reason did not want to release (even though they had released other plate designs). Really dumb. But keyboard works so whatever :)

You could add rubber feet, sub-pcb foam liner, lube the switches, o-rings work too but feel awful. Also having a neoprene keyboard/mousepad helps too. I’d recommend positively affixing the pcb+plate to the case so it doesn’t rattle either.

They used the wrong type of bulb. Ordinarily the bulb will be made of a UV blocking glass, and not be quartz based. I think? So it’s not usually the shroud that stops UV except in cases of Halogen bulbs. These would be CFL without any shield except perhaps a cage to protect against things thrown.

Then be content. Tell your best friend what you need to say.

So, I can’t help you here. I know nothing about this product but I will advise you to not trust it with providing you continuous power. I don’t think consumer units like this even the one LTT reviewed are meant to be run 100% of the time. No matter what their marketing claims. They are very compact, energy dense, and even with fans blowing air likely get too warm for their own good.

I understand the want to have a self reliance on power but this ain’t it chief.

There are sketching ground bonding adapters online that I wouldn’t trust.

The below is a total assumption of how this is constructed electrically. No guarantees. I would bet it has input from wall power, powering a dc power supply for the batteries. The batteries are also charged by a solar charge controller. This DC battery bank is then connected to a switchable inverter. The output from the inverter is connected to a transfer switch that has two inputs and one output. One input to the internal inverter, the other input to wall power. The output to the outlets it has on its face. When you are in “EPS” mode it probably forces the transfer switch to always connect the front outlets to the inverter if it senses no power on the dc charger side. Then it probably takes a second to switch that connection. I’d bet it’s going slow to make absolutely sure it is never connecting inverter out to your home’s power outlet. That way there is no chance of blowing up the inverter.

This is consumer grade technology. Real UPS does not have this downside. You would be better off salvaging a commercial grade UPS with no battery, getting a battery bank for it, and connecting a solar charge controller to the battery. It would at least be rated to work continuously under load. Some UPS have a green mode. You want this off so it is always inverting and always passing through to your device, it’s own generated power.

But this also sucks because you’re losing like 20% total efficiency on the 120/240v -> dc battery charger in the UPS, and inverter from dc -> 120/240 volt outlets.

This question doesn’t make very much sense because ordinarily in a solar power system if you have grid power, your panels will feed your battery bank through a solar management device, and battery charger. And then any excess from charging would be turned into AC for your home and grid. If you are pulling enough the net flow of power is out of solar, into your home, and out of street, into your home, that’s all there is to it. You would be consuming power. Your battery system will not turn on if you have grid power and your solar will turn off, typically, when you lose grid power. How you have solar connected to battery, whether they are in line or disjoint systems, dictates whether you will have solar powering your home in a power outage. In a power outage to prevent back feeding to the street and endangering line workers, a manual or auto transfer switch must be thrown before your battery bank can energize your home’s power.

Another reason you almost certainly don’t want to have your battery feeding the grid, other than it being a bad and cost inefficient way of handing power, is that very few if any consumer grade inverter systems have the ability to perfectly sync phase, output clean sine wave (less of a big deal than the previous and next point), and also be aware of when the power goes out, so you can protect yourself and others in that event.

For lack of ground in UPS units, I’m also not understanding your question. Why would you lack a ground for a UPS? Even when the internal transfer switch is thrown into battery backup your ground will be shared and connected to your home. Ofc unless you disconnect it from the wall. Then, yeah if you care about a ground then you can always connect it to the UPS via the power plug, or also bond any connected devices to earth at home.

If you want to have a single window for multiple shells or you want to replace use of tmux in an SSH context, Zellij is exactly that. The plus side is if you work remote from your machine, an ssh connection will feel faster than a VNC session to the same machine. IMO 100% a difference you can feel if you already remote to your work desktop.

I haven’t seriously used it yet but I should. If you’re a fan of text environments it’s worth a shot. I’m still rocking multiple putty windows like a caveman.

Because they promised and continue to deliver more on Fairphones 2&3

You can disable or set static lights in the onboard profile. How? It’s confusing and I don’t remember. Very dark pattern but probably not on purpose. Just bad design.

Vial has its own security issues it promised to solve but didn’t necessarily. I think it still exposes the keyboard matrix activity to any software that asks for it.

In fairness you can offload profiles to your mouse or whatever and just kill the software. Mouse works fine afterward but without the fancy, awful, per application button mapping. That was always a slow and buggy feature.